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Stamp date on spring. March 22, 1923?

5 coats, last one diluted. Beautiful.

My spray booth

First Coat - Dupont Centari 99A Pitch Black with hardner 8-2-1

Parts laid out on world's biggest tarp

Grey primer on grey metal... arggh

Ready for epoxy primer

Tarping to get ready for primer

Remove rear running board support trim front 3"

Engine pan back from media blaster

Persistent drilling wins

U-joint pin will not come out despite repeated drilling and hammering

Drilled through

Engine cleaning day

Body Begins

The following post on the MTFCA site gave me a start on this effort http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/47541.html

Using a steel firewall, how would I build a cowl that would attach to the firewall, and also the wood body.  What I decided to do was utilize the wood firewall I already had as a wood spar, and then make a duplicate, but slightly bigger spar to support the dash.  If you look at the vintage speedster photo, we are not looking at a significant amount of weight or metal to support.

Using a compass, I set the width to be slightly wider than the points on the firewall where the brackets mount. I then traced this same pattern onto the wood firewall.   Using a bandsaw, I then cut out this pattern.

Ack!  The steering column!  So I stopped, mounted the steering column onto the wood firewall so that I could then get the diameter of that mount, and cut it out,

Off to the bandsaw I went.

Here is the result, with and without the coil box mounted to test fit (Yes, I know that is not a 1922 coil box.)

Seats

The project came with several pieces of the Lang's speedster kit, including aluminum speedster seat shells.

I took two layers of 3/4 inch AC plywood, glued them together, and painted them - black of course. 

Traced the outline of the shells on each.   I then realized they were asymentrical so they came out seriously off center.  What to do.  I looked at them a while and determined nothing could be done, so traced them as-is.   Cut them out, then drilled holes around the shells, inserting machine screws into the side every 6 inches or so to attach.
I debated what to do about seat belts.  A Model T with seat belts - how silly.  But I have kids so I wanted to have at least the option to add belts later.  So, I cut slots as shown so that I could build the base with a cavity to store the belts, and to put the out of sight when the car is shown.

Next, I had to do something about the sharp edge of the shells.  My local O'Reilly auto parts guy came to teh rescue with a flexible plastic door edge protection material.  It has a U channel, but you really have to press down to open up the U enough to grab.  Once installed, it is tough to remove.  I think you will agree it was an outstanding solution.  Note how well it conformed to even complex turns

I took a router, rounded over all the sharp wood edges, then covered the edges with black Gorrilla tape as well.  Here they are, ready to go to the upholstery shop.

Sandy and the gang at Country Corner Upholstery in Powell, WY took the project to a new level with what they did next.  I gave them a color and a general set of guidelines and they did the rest.  They did outstanding work.  Just look.